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Repairing The Damage

Broken Capacitor

Now, let's attend to the capacitor that was totally removed from the pad. Fortunately, it was not missing, just "decapitated".

  1. Clean the pad of its original solder. Your current solder may not mix well with the old solder. You can use the solder wick or solder sucker to do this. All you need to do is tilt the cap slightly upwards, put the wick on the pad and heat the pad. Alternatively, heat the pad and suck up the solder.
     
  2. Now add your own solder to the pads. The quantity needed is a matter of experience or trial and error if there's a lack thereof. I suggest putting just enough solder to cover the top of the joint and no more.
     
  3. Start work on one side. Bend the leg of the capacitor on that side to the 7 o'clock position.
     
  4. Heat up the pad and hold the capacitor with your pliers.
     
  5. Push the bent leg onto the solder on the pad and apply pressure until it straightens out and points to the 9 o'clock position.
     
  6. Hold the pliers steady as you pull the iron out and let the joint cool.
     
  7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 for the other leg.

These two pictures illustrate a pretty decent solder joint. You can use the solder wick to clean up the excess solder for a superior joint, as well as a much better looking one!

 

Badly Seated Capacitor

This capacitor is badly seated. If we don't fix it, it could eventually come loose and break contact with the pad. Best to fix it while we are at it. Besides, this is much easier to fix than the two previous problems.

Generally all you need to do is :

  1. Heat one pad.
     
  2. Apply a constant downward force on the capacitor and pull the soldering iron back.
     
  3. Let the pad cool.
     
  4. Repeat for the other side.

Yeah, baby! Perfect joint!



 

 
   
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